So I just finished rebuilding the cockpit lockers and lazarette hatches. After all the pointers and help I received, it wasn't too bad. I approached it the way I always do: I con myself that I'll do a "quick and dirty" job, it will be cheap and easy and I'll cut all the corners I can cut. But of course, since you're reading this email, it's because once I got going, I felt I had to complete the job to the best of my abilities, and I am reasonably satisfied with the results and the protocol I used to achieve them. Overview: The hatches are built as a 1/2 in plywood backing board screwed (and glued with caulk) to the underside of teak-strip board, with only the thick teak edge-trim screwed down onto the plywood from the top side. Overhaul involves removing the old plywood, gluing and/or screwing new plywood in its place, then sealing and - optionally - painting it. Protocol: I laid the hatches upside down, removed the old plywood, sanded smooth, made a note on the edge-trim of the location of the rows and columns of screws, cut the new (1/2in Meranti) plywood to size and dry-fit it in the trough left behind by the previous plywood, drew the grid pattern for the screws onto it, pre-drilled all the holes, removed the plywood and sealed the end-grain with West System, then spread TDS FE180A Teak Adhesive on both the teak and the plywood to seal it and glue it. To ensure good contact, I applied pressure to the plywood hold it down onto the teak. Once glued, I sealed it with one coat of West System, taking this opportunity to glue any loose trim back on, then sanded, primed and painted with white Alkyd Enamel. Then I flipped it over, and re-caulked per TDS instructions on YouTube and Jamestown Distributors. Lessons learned: It's easy. As described elsewhere, a sharpened awl is excellent in removing old Epoxy from the Phillips screw heads so they may be removed and possibly even reused. Different length screws used in the lockers vs lazarette hatches, see photo. A well sharpened 12" pry bar is very useful in removing the old plywood. Jig was very useful and easy to make. Once finished, the reconditioned hatches fit perfectly in the boat. Drawing the grid pattern on the edge was instrumental in ensuring screws lined up with the teak strips, and not the gaps between the strips! Teak Decking Systems offer excellent bonding and caulking solutions. Their glue effectively seals the plywood, and I feel I needn't have pre-sealed the end-grain. Matt Crane Tayana 37 S/V Wishes Winthrop, MA mattscrane@gmail.com